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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. This recognition has left the family totally surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” says a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their small restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. As the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled securely inside.

It is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London train at this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly proud of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own doors. “I think numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.